Thursday, 04.02.2010: leaving and first Llama meat!

4 Feb
Today morning, Gérard and me woke up quite early and went out to ge some bread, eggs and ham to make breakfast.
While I was then packing everything into the trailer and 18 liters of aqua on the bike*, Gérard returned to the village to get some information about the trips he wanted to do. We then left together as he had rent a bicycle for the day: he went to the north, my direction was the south by passing the entrance to the observatory ALMA. On the side of street are other companion…
Arrived at Toconao, I passed by the Carabineros, just to be sure my trip was possible: remember, there are some (explosive) mine areas near the border… The officer was very friendly as usual, tolding me that thepass to Argentinia is closed (mined) and the road following the border as well. But the road directly to El Laco is open. My way was just newly set.
After lunch in Toconao in not the friendliest restaurant, I continued the trip on the 23. After few 10km I took the road to Talabre, a little pueblo at 3400m, living from the culture of several vegetables, Llama and other animals. The road is nice and hard: they have mixed salt water with earth to a hard and flat surface. Hard as well because you have up to 18% and 70kg to lift up.
Arrived at Talabre I had my trophy: just at the entrance on the left, there is a restaurant/hostal where you can eat Llama meat. Of course I had to try! 🙂
Well, as it was cook with spices, the taste was near to a good beef. But very soft and without cholesterol (what I heard about, I could not verify *smile*).
The hostal is a very good alternative to the over prized San Pedro de Atacama. Especially for people travelling by car! You can have a dormitory bed for 10 USD (San Pedro: 16-20 USD) and a room with private bath for 30 USD (San Pedro: mostly over 40 USD). And it is quite (and lost), you have a beautiful view over the Salar with sun set and can enjoy local food.
By the way, the address is:
Cocinera Huaytiquina
Elisa Soza Tejerina
Talabre, 55km south of San Pedro de Atacama
Cellphone: 9 1977983 (with +56 for Chile)
Email: (for now only once a week, there will be wifi installed in the village)

It is the start point to go on the still active volvano Lascar (~5100m). You have to drive to the Laguna Cejia and then it is an easy “walk” of 3h. The husband has done it with his son of 8 years.

After having eaten so well, I wanted to do some km to sleep in the tent and try the new nails of steel.
As I did not need to eat (again), I can go directly to bed!

Gud n8

2x 1.6L on the frame (holder for large bottles)
3x 5L on the carrier, which is not a good alternative: the 5L container breaks with the time. So I had to transfer the water into the Ortlieb water bag.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.